How to Communicate With Dogs: Annarose on Corrections, Motivation & Training Tools

COMMUNICATION, NOT CORRECTION

A2:
You’ve started calling corrections “communication collars” instead of correction collars. Why that shift?

Annarose:
Because that’s really what they are—communication. At the end of the day, dog training is just us learning how to communicate with our dogs.

Positive motivation is communication. When a dog does something right, they receive a reward. Negative motivation is also communication. When a dog does something they shouldn’t, or refuses to comply, they receive a correction.

A correction is simply something that specific dog finds motivating enough to stop a behavior. Dogs need negative motivation. They need corrections. They need the structure that comes with it. Dogs correct each other all the time.

If you want to learn how to communicate with dogs, the best way is to watch how they communicate with each other.

Think about it like this: if two people speak different languages, one of them has to learn the other’s language for communication to happen. Dogs can’t learn our language, so we have to learn how to communicate in theirs.

They’re such a huge part of our lives—and becoming even more so—that it’s important we understand them better.

WHEN AND WHY CORRECTIONS ARE USED

A2:
So how do you actually execute that communication through corrections?

Annarose:
It depends entirely on the dog. I use corrections for two main reasons.

The first is safety. If a dog is doing something dangerous to themselves or others, that behavior needs to be stopped immediately.

The second is refusal. If I’ve already trained a behavior—recall, for example—and the dog knows that when I call them they should come, but they decide not to, that’s when a correction comes in.

The correction has to be well-timed and give the dog clear, directional information about how to respond. Once they comply, they’re rewarded.

TIMING THE MOMENT OF DECISION

A2:
By “well-timed,” you mean immediately, right?

Annarose:
Exactly. It happens right when they make the decision to refuse or not comply. You’re catching them in the act of that decision.

WHAT CORRECTIONS LOOK LIKE IN PRACTICE

A2:
What does that look like in practice?

Annarose:
It can look like a few different things. One common example is a leash pop—a quick, sharp pop on the leash. Not a long pull, not dragging them—just a quick snap.

That’s usually my default starting point. And the strength of that correction varies. A dog’s size doesn’t determine how hard or soft a correction should be. Motivation level does.

I always start low and build up if needed. I’m constantly collecting information about the dog and adjusting as I go.

COLLAR CHOICES AND PROPER USE

A2:
What tools do you typically use alongside leash corrections?

Annarose:
I’ll use a flat collar, but I prefer prong collars.

And prong collars get a really bad reputation, so I want to clear that up. They’re not spike collars. They don’t have sharp edges. There’s only one brand I trust—Herm Sprenger. They’re German-made, extremely well-built, and they apply even pressure around the dog’s neck instead of focusing on one spot.

Flat collars can put pressure directly on the trachea, depending on the dog’s build. With leash pops, the pressure is quick and released immediately, so it’s not the same as sustained pulling—but prong collars are still safer and clearer for most dogs.

Proper placement matters too. A prong collar should sit high on the neck, right behind the ears and under the chin. It should be snug, not tight. When you pop the leash, it tightens briefly and then releases.

You can use it with light pressure—where the pressure turns off when the dog moves correctly—or with leash pops for directional guidance. And again, once the dog responds, they’re rewarded.

TEACHING DOGS HOW TO RESPOND TO PRESSURE

A2:
So part of this is teaching the dog how to respond to negative motivation in the first place.

Annarose:
Exactly. Especially in the beginning. Some dogs have never even worn a collar or leash. For them, just wearing one is overwhelming.

We desensitize them. They wear the collar. They get fed. They relax. You build positive associations even with tools that are used for negative motivation.

Negative motivation doesn’t mean negative association.

WHY HARNESSES DON’T BELONG IN OBEDIENCE TRAINING

A2:
Where do harnesses fit into this?

Annarose:
Honestly, they don’t—for obedience training.

Harnesses were designed to give dogs more power to pull. That’s literally their purpose. Huskies pulling sleds, dogs pulling carts—that’s what harnesses are for.

When you put a harness on a dog, you give them access to their entire body strength: chest, shoulders, back. It maximizes their pulling ability. So while it may feel safer, it won’t stop pulling.

Most dogs don’t care about leash pops on a harness because the sensation means nothing to them.

For obedience training, I avoid harnesses almost entirely.

OTHER COLLAR TYPES AND PREFERRED TOOLS

A2:
What about other collar types?

Annarose:
There are martingale collars, which tighten and loosen similarly to prong collars, but they still apply pressure unevenly. Chain collars are another one I generally avoid.

My go-to tools are prong collars and remote collars.

REMOTE COLLARS AND MODERN TRAINING

A2:
You’re big on remote collars.

Annarose:
They’re my favorite training tool, hands down. All four of my dogs are fully trained on remote collars. Every command they know can be reinforced with one, and they understand exactly how to respond.

Remote collars have a terrible reputation because of how they used to be—single-level shock collars for hunting dogs. But the technology has evolved massively.

Modern remote collars use static stimulation, more like a pulse or vibration than a shock. The ones I use have up to 100 or 127 levels, which allows you to find the exact working level for each dog.

That flexibility is huge, especially since every dog is different.

CONSISTENCY AND OWNER TRANSER

A2:
Is that why they work so well for transferring training to owners?

Annarose:
Exactly. With leash corrections, everyone applies pressure differently. With a remote collar, if the dog’s working level is 30, then 30 is 30—no matter who’s holding the remote.

That consistency is priceless when training transfers from me to the owner.

Each of my dogs has a different working level. And those levels change depending on the situation. High stimulation means higher correction levels.

But each dog has a baseline working level, and it’s my job to figure that out for clients.

PRECISION TIMING AT ANY DISTANCE

A2:
Timing seems like another big advantage.

Annarose:
It’s huge. With a remote collar, I can correct a dog from another room—or from half a mile away—at the exact moment they make a bad decision.

You can’t always grab a leash in time. Remote collars give you the best timing, the best consistency, and the clearest communication.

TOOLS, EDUCATION, & RESPONSIBILITY

A2:
And they speed things up.

Annarose:
They do. There’s no quick fix in training, but they absolutely expedite the process. I can train dogs without remote collars, but communication is clearer and owner transfer is far better when the right tool is used.

That said, tools are just tools. Used incorrectly, any tool can be harmful. A hammer used on a screw won’t work.

That’s why research matters. Quality matters. Timing matters. And working with someone who knows how to use these tools properly matters.

A lot of people buy tools and start using them without understanding them. That’s when dogs get confused, stressed, or reactive.

CLOSING THOUGHTS ON COMMUNICATION

A2:
Anything else you want to add?

Annarose:
I’m always open to questions about collars and negative motivation. The fear around them usually comes from lack of education and outdated information.

Dog training is communication. When we understand that—and learn how dogs actually communicate—we can work with them instead of against them.